ODE TO ROBERT MONDAVI

Robert Mondavi Winery 2006 Fumé Blanc

“Robert Mondavi (California wine patriach), who died on Friday (May 16, 2008) at age 94, played a leading part in the widespread growth in admiration for American wines, especially for the wines of the Napa Valley, California, where in the 1960s he established the Robert Mondavi Winery and did much to improve the wines produced there. In 1978, in partnership with Baron Philippe de Rothschild, the proprietor of Château Mouton-Rothschild in the Médoc, he launched the premium California cabernet Opus One (the label decorated with silhouettes of Mondavi and the Baron), which commands market prices comparable with those of the French “first-growth” wines.”

Robert Mondavi 2006 Fume BlancThe evening must not pass without pause for tribute to the great, late Robert Mondavi. Risqué views himself personally responsible for the success of the Mondavi brand. OPUS has long constituted a significant portion of Risqué’s cellar and consumption. However, tonight on this hot summer late spring evening Robert Mondavi Winery 2006 Fumé Blanc seemed far more appropriate. Papi Mondavi pioneered the first Fumé Blanc (meaning white smoke) in 1966 to be a barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc that showcases the most desirable aspects of the Sauvignon Blanc grape with a cavalcade of ardent followers.

The transparent color sparkles clear with a very, very pale straw. The nose is clean cut with wet straw, green apples, ripe pear, hints of tangerine and sweet honeydew. Invigorating the palate are crisp, bright citrusy tangerine and just shy of grapefruit notes and Risqué must agree with the winery that “this is bright citrus, melon and floral with mineral characteristics from Napa Valley Vineyards” all from sur lies aging which paired perfectly with warm roasted salted nuts, creamy triple camembert cheese and tangy dried apricots.

Risqué pops a cork and lifts his glass in honor of one of the greatest (perhaps richest) contributors to American viticulture, Robert Mondavi.

“Au future!”

Alcohol 14.0% ($16)

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